When my husband and I set out on our camping trip to Cape Vidal Nature Reserve in Northern KwaZulu Natal, we hoped for a quiet escape into nature’s beauty. This reserve, located within the stunning iSimangaliso Wetland Park, offered the perfect backdrop with its pristine beaches, coastal forests, and an abundance of wildlife. Our goal was to unplug and experience the serenity that only nature can provide. What we didn’t expect, however, was an unforgettable encounter with some of South Africa’s wilder residents, namely a honey badger with a sweet tooth and a fearless hyena!
The Beauty of Cape Vidal
Driving 32 kilometers into the reserve felt like a journey into the heart of South Africa’s wilderness. Cape Vidal is known for its picturesque campsites nestled between lush greenery and the warm Indian Ocean. We chose to visit outside of peak season, so the atmosphere was wonderfully quiet and peaceful. After setting up camp, we took a leisurely stroll to the beach, mesmerized by the landscape’s vast beauty.
Our first encounter with wildlife happened just moments after setting out for this walk. While meandering through the grounds, we spotted a honey badger raiding a fellow camper’s bin. We were thrilled to see one up close, unaware that this tough little creature would soon make our trip even more eventful. Learning that he was around early on in the adventure was good to know, however. We had been warned about the monkeys and them possibly raiding us, but there was no mention of the said honey badger within the campsite.
A Midnight Visitor: Honey Badger with a Sweet Tooth
That night, we were woken by a rustling noise outside our tent. Curious, we peeked out to find our fabric cooler bag mysteriously dragged under our car—with the honey badger clinging to it! We were both startled, as was the honey badger, and after a quick standoff, we managed to retrieve our cooler, thankfully still packed with chocolate brownies, cheesecake, cream cheese and canned drinks.
The next morning, we set out on a game drive and had placed this cooler inside the tent which we had secured with zip ties on the zips. Fool proof, right? We saw an incredible array of wildlife, including impalas, zebras, giraffes, hippos and a majestic spotted hyena—unaware that the hyenas would soon play a starring role in this particular camping story.
The Honey Badger Strikes Again!
After a memorable game drive, we returned to our campsite, hoping for a quiet afternoon. Yet there, slinking away from our tent, was the honey badger. Though we had zip-tied the zips closed to keep monkeys out, we were shocked to discover that this determined creature had torn a hole in the side of our tent to reach his prize at last. Inside, our cooler was a mess, its contents raided. Only the brownies and cheesecake were missing! This badger has no desire for the cream cheese as it turned out. Given the opportunity to choose we would have rather let the cheese have been sacrificed as the sweets were purchased from a market in Shongweni over the previous weekend and we had been looking forward to them for over a year before our return to the area! One cooler down, one more to go…
This encounter highlighted Cape Vidal’s wild side. The honey badger, known for its audacity, left us laughing and shaking our heads at its mischievous antics. However, we were about to discover that our campsite had yet another nocturnal visitor waiting to test our resolve.
The Hyena’s Midnight Heist
That evening, after our delicious dinner and sitting around our campfire, we heard a noise further out in the campsite and shined our torch to see a large hyena boldly knocking over a bin. Our damaged tent suddenly felt quite vulnerable. But my husband, determined to keep our cooler secure, created a fortress around the torn tent flap. Stacking heavy camp boxes against the hole inside and a 25L water container on top of the Coleman cooler outside, he figured we’d have enough time to react if anything tried to steal the cooler this time. I was suspicious that this plan would work but let it slide to not seem like a nagging wife, after already saying several times that we should put the cooler box in the car.
Nonetheless we tucked into bed and sure enough, at around 11:30 pm, the water container fell over (we did hear it so this part of the plan was a success), and my husband dashed outside just in time to see the hyena dragging our cooler into the bushes. He bravely (or stupdily) followed and found himself 50 meters into the bushes. The hyena had left the cooler, now with it’s handle torn off and it’s contents severely dwindled, for Ben to find and try to recover what he could under the darkness within the bushes. All that he could salvage was miraculously a few packs of bacon, some jalapenos and the cream cheese the honey badger had left too!
While in the clearing process, he got this feeling to look up and shine his torch, only to find about 20m further, the glinting eyes of five hyenas staring back at him. He cautiously backed out, bringing the cooler back to our tent, shaking, and suddenly very, very sober (after enjoying some wine earlier in the evening). The list the hyenas ate in seconds included: boerewors, steak, chicken espatadas, two blocks of butter, a block of cheddar cheese and various snacks.
The outcome of this raid
The next morning, considering we did not have enough food left, our tent had a hole in it, the rain was coming and we had been subjected to theft by two different wild and potentially dangerous animals, we decided to pack up and leave early. For breakfast we could muster up two minute noodles with bacon; the bread was gone, the eggs were gone, the onions were gone, the planned breakfast was just a dream that slipped away.
As a side note, and just to add insult to injury, while we were taking down our camp, we did eventually get raided by the monkeys- both vervits and samangos who stole our Ghost Pops and sat at the top of the tree watching us like we were a TV show for them and they had the delight of “popcorn” to go with it.
Lessons Learned from an Unforgettable Safari Adventure
As we lay awake, our hearts racing from the night’s excitement, we were reminded at just how thrilling a safari camping experience could be. The close encounters with wildlife, especially creatures as determined as honey badgers and as bold as hyenas, made us appreciate the unpredictability of nature even more.
For anyone planning a camping safari in Cape Vidal, here are some lessons we learned:
- Secure Your Food Properly: Honey badgers and hyenas are incredibly resourceful and strong willed, so invest in sturdy, animal-proof containers.
- Expect the Unexpected: From midnight raids to up-close wildlife encounters, part of the safari magic is embracing the unknown.
- Consider an Off-Peak Season Visit: This allowed us to enjoy a more secluded experience, making each wildlife encounter all the more special.
Cape Vidal Nature Reserve offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in Africa’s wild beauty. Our adventure left us with incredible memories—and some funny scars on our cooler—that we’ll treasure forever. For those seeking a custom safari itinerary that combines natural beauty, unforgettable wildlife, and the thrill of the unexpected, consider adding a camping stint to your next trip.